Annoying whistle/squeak

t-tony

The Legend
Deceased
Supporter
#ZedShed
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Points
226
Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
As per title my Z has developed an annoying whistle or squeaking noise from the auxiliary drive belt. I fitted a new belt this afternoon which has improved things but the noise is still there albeit a little less loud. If I let the car idle in park or neutral you can hardly hear it, but if you select reverse or drive with the brake applied and let the engine idle (the revs drop by a couple of hundred rpm) the noise is more prominent. The pulley bearings were quiet and listening by a screwdriver handle all seems smooth including the alternator (phew !!), having had a look this evening the tensioner pulley has a little movement , side to side, so I'm going to replace that next. Bearing in mind that all the pulleys and belts are 15 years old and have done 80 odd thousand miles I can't really complain. Any other ideas?;)

Thanks,

Tony.
 
Trapped mouse?

It will be the belt tensioner Tony, mine is doing it (when it drives:(), I will be changing the aux belt and tensioner when I put it back in the road.
 
I thought that too Rich but the action of the sprung lever is very smooth and not at all jerky. Maybe this would be a good time to do the fan delete? If I have to remove the fan to get the cowling out of the way I may as well replace the fan switch and leave the fan on the shelf.

Tony.
 
I would Tony
Do you happen to know Rich, off the top of your head what temp switch you need to replace the original one with by any chance?

Tony.
 
I don't Tony, I am looking at an aluminium radiator and cooling fan kit which comes with the temp switch, the only temp switch I am aware of on the Z3 is the aircon fan switch.
 
I was under the impression that that was part of the fan delete, by using the AC cooling fan in place of the viscous fan, by installing a slighty lower temp switch?

Tony.
 
Well that awful noise is gone now, and all it took was a new belt, tensioner and guide pulley. Oh, and nearly £80 too. I have taken loads of pictures as per, so if anyone would like me to do the "How to..." please shout up.:)

Tony.
 
Go for it Tony.
Hi Mike, thank you, I'll do it as soon as my bits of video have uploaded on Youtube.:)

Tony.

ps. So that might not be tonight then.=))
 
Up to something.........;)
Me, no never, just that it takes forever to upload even a short video from here Mike. I reckon Frankie must have left his uploading over night going by the length of them. A good watch all the same.:)

Tony.
 
Me, no never, just that it takes forever to upload even a short video from here Mike. I reckon Frankie must have left his uploading over night going by the length of them. A good watch all the same.:)

Tony.
Patience Bro! Good things come to those who wait or some crap saying like that! JIM
 
Tony, Fan delete is on my to do list when the water pump, thermostat and belts are replaced. Looked into the switch required last year and one reference I found said to replace it with a standard 1.8/1.9 switch (part no. 61318376440) which IIRC correctly turns the A/C fan on at 82deg C rather than 90-ish. If I can find the reference again (may have been (@Aceman) will post a link.
 
Found some more recent information on fan delete.

The fan switch is as simple as fitting one of these
www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z3_1.9_1997/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/cooling/car-switch-and-car-sensor/?224110330&1&f5abc2ad9deb91d3757d5351430cb74a0ad40318&000529

It has an opening closing temp setting of 88/80 vs the stock 90/85. Over on BF there is a lot of talk of fitting an 80c thermostat aswell but I don't think this is necessary - some people suggest it is detrimental but tbh I don't have a clue either way :confused:

Ash
 
I changed the auxiliary belt, tensioner and guide pulley on my 2000 2.0, here's how I did it.

Tools required,
1. 1 1/4" combination spanner (or 32mm)
2. Hide/copper faced heavy hammer.
3. 13 and 16 mm 3/8" sockets and ratchet and 1" and 3" extensions.
4. 1/4" drive socket set.
5. Pair of side cutters.

Removal of the air filter housing is required to give access the main job at hand.

First thing to do is loosen the viscous fan hub on the water pump. This is where the big spanner and hammer come in. Place the open end of the spanner on the hexagon of the viscous fan hub and with the ring end of the spanner standing upwards give it a couple of sharp smacks with the hammer in a left hand thread direction. ie. Hit towards the right as in the picture. Once loose continue screwing the hub off the water pump. Be careful not to let the fan drop and damage the radiator core.

030.webp 031.webp 032.webp

Next you have to remove the fan cowling which is fastened to the radiator at the top corners by a plastic rivet. To remove the rivet use the side cutters to ease the centre part of the rivet out, then pull out the main part. The cowling and fan then lift out together, again take great care not to damage the radiator core.

024.webp 025.webp

Once the fan and cowling are out of the way you can get a 16mm socket and ratchet and putting the socket onto the 16mm hexagon casting on the tensioner casting apply pressure to release tension on the Aux. belt and place a screw or similar into the "locking" holes in the 2 parts of the tensioner the maintain the tensioner in the relaxed position, where you can remove the belt from the pulleys and place it out of the way.

011.webp 013.webp 016.webp

Next using the 16mm socket slacken and remove the guide pulley bolt and pulley itself.

Now you have to release the tension and remove the small screw and allow the tensioner to fully release to the end of it's travel so that the lower fixing bolt is accessible. Slacken and remove the 2 fixing bolts using the 13mm socket and extensions and remove the tensioner assembly, again watch the rad.
Here you can hear how noisy the old bearing was, turn up the volume.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3B1bWF0Lic&index=2&list=FLC-M7yLKSNJlaaiUga62JhQ


With the old and new parts side by side on the bench you can see the new guide pulley has a small lump which needs to be located in the cut out shown on the mounting face by the 10mm diameter hole in the last picture. before fully tightening the 16mm bolt. The guide is best fitted after you have fitted the new tensioner and tightened the 2 13mm bolts and pre-tensioned the lever and locked it in place with a pin as in the picture.

018.webp 020.webp
017.webp

You can now re fit the belt around all the pulleys, leaving the power steering pulley till last, now apply a little pressure on the tensioner with the ratchet on the 16mm hexagon and remove the locking pin. Now apply full pressure on the tensioner to move to it's full extent and then put the belt onto the power steering pump pulley. Finally check that the belt is on ALL pulleys properly in line and centrally positioned on the ribs and release pressure on the tensioner. Finally lower the fan and cowling back into position ensuring that the cowling is located behind the mountings pegs on both sides of the radiator, you can then fit the fan back onto the water pump, remembering that it's left hand thread. When it is tight place the 32mm spanner on the hex again and apply a couple of sharp smacks with the hammer to lock it in place. The fan cowling is fastened back to the radiator with the 2 plastic rivets, with the centre parts tapped back in to lock the rivets in place.

Here you can here how quiet the new tensioner pulley is, after the initial fast idle slows and you can hear above the induction noise !!

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUojMoDNgUQ&index=1&list=FLC-M7yLKSNJlaaiUga62JhQ


If I've missed anything shout up. If you're close enough and want help you only need to ask.

Tony.
 
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