Rebody Another 507 build

[jaguartvr]

Check the back of the flange where the rear clam bolts to the door aperture. You can sand this down which will give you a bit more clearance.

 

[Piran]

Check the back of the flange where the rear clam bolts to the door aperture. You can sand this down which will give you a bit more clearance.

Too late, back end is firmly fixed so anything I do will have to be done in situ

 

[jaguartvr]

Do you have to bond the 507 rear clam on? The beauty of all the other Tribute cars is that everything is removable. This was a major drawback on the DNA Californias

 

[Piran]

Well there's not so much as a set of instructions. There's only a few bolts holding the back on so it seemed prudent and Dan mentioned tigerseal when fitting his so I've just followed that

 

[Dxbolton]

You have to bend the z3 door skin inwards.

 

[Piran]

Taking a break from the back end while I think about the boot hinges, so came forward. Got the bonnet to close (still need to drill the hole for the cooling loop in front of the radiator). Tried to fit the front valance and there's a pipe in the way :

of both getting the holes to be accessible and with the vertical metal pipe binding on the side of the valance

 

[Dxbolton]

I haven't unpacked the door skins yet but the original z3 doors rub the grp(particularly on the passenger side). Will try and get somewhere with the boot first though.

Yes, mine did too! I shaved back the gel coat to give clearance and stop it sticking. I will need to take off more when I do final gaps to allow for paint thickness

 

[Dxbolton]

Taking a break from the back end while I think about the boot hinges, so came forward. Got the bonnet to close (still need to drill the hole for the cooling loop in front of the radiator). Tried to fit the front valance and there's a pipe in the way :
View attachment 275083
of both getting the holes to be accessible and with the vertical metal pipe binding on the side of the valance

I’ll have to look at mine, it was tight. I think I unbolted the silver canister to the left of the photo, and moved it slightly. Might have drilled out the bolt holes to allow an extra couple of mm movement in the flexi pipe.

 

[Dxbolton]

Why are you drilling a hole for the cooling loop? Have you got the wrong front valence?
there’s one for aircon cars and a different one for non aircon. I redesigned the original to miss the pipe work and Chris made new moulds. Have a chat with him

 

[Dxbolton]

Should look like this and give clearance

 

[Piran]

I have the Aircon on the other side which is getting in the way, managed to get a pipe bender on it, hopefully it's ok

 

[Dxbolton]

Not like this

 

[jaguartvr]

My loop was in very poor condition so I removed it and replaced it with a loop of rubber pipe out 4" long. It has never given me any problems in 8 years. It is just a cooling loop for the power steering. haven't come across any other cars that need a cooling loop on the power steering pump.

 

[Duncodin]

You have to bend the z3 door skin inwards.

What's this for? Bend the steel skin inwards to pull the back edge of the door metal forwards a bit?

I haven't got my kit yet - still 2 months out - but my head is getting in gear and so many questions.

That rear tub - I assume it wraps around the door pillar same as the steel rear wings. Is it screwed to the door pillar and the plastic trim goes back over to hide the screws?

 

[Dxbolton]

What's this for? Bend the steel skin inwards to pull the back edge of the door metal forwards a bit?

I haven't got my kit yet - still 2 months out - but my head is getting in gear and so many questions.

That rear tub - I assume it wraps around the door pillar same as the steel rear wings. Is it screwed to the door pillar and the plastic trim goes back over to hide the screws?

Yes, the rear tub picks up the same mounting holes. On the passenger side you might want to thin out the grp on the rear edge as a couple of us have noticed the door gap is very tight taking off 1mm before fitting will help your alignment.
The door skin just needs to be bent inwards to allow the profile of the new one sit nicely, the zed skin bows outwards too much

 

[Piran]

Front end coming together (still more work to do on the brackets though):

I've glued and fibreglassed the fixings to the bonnet panel and bootlid:

I've put a brace across the front two bolts on the bootlid to make sure there's not so much stress on the fibrelgass.
Now to the boot lock etc. and wiring the lights and boot handle next.

 

[Piran]

So bootlid now fastened - a bit tight in places so maybe a nudge here or ther (it's quite tight anyway). The gas struts are way too strong for it so I'll see if I can find any weaker ones or just do a bar that holds the boot open for now.

 

[Pingu]

So bootlid now fastened - a bit tight in places so maybe a nudge here or ther (it's quite tight anyway). The gas struts are way too strong for it so I'll see if I can find any weaker ones or just do a bar that holds the boot open for now.

You can get adjustable gas struts, and adjust them right down. The only "problem" is that the adjustment means losing the fluid, so if you over-adjust them , you will need to get them re-gassed.

Or add some weight to the bootlid.

 

[Dxbolton]

That looks a nicer fit than mine!
I did file 2 or 3mm of the boot lid edges to leave a nice 5mm gap all round the edges.

 

[Piran]

Cut the hole to fit the boot lock:

had to go beyond the vertical part a bit at the bottom and a bit at the top to get it in:

Wiring it in next - before starting on the catch plate (don't want to end up with alocked boot with no way to open it.
I guess since I'm wiring at the back now's the time to fit and wire the lights - but I'll need to measure the holes carefully as the ones marked in the gelcoat are asymetric.