EWS question

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bmwz3tower

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I'm getting power to the solenoid (I can hear it click), but the starter won't crank the engine. Has anyone experienced this/ does anyone know if this maybe an EWS issue.
 
Starter motor likely. Give it a decent tap with a hammer and try it.
 
Grumps said:
Starter motor likely. Give it a decent tap with a hammer and try it.
Click to expand...
Sorry, should have said in the question, I've removed the starter, cleaned and regreased it and changed the solenoid. Prior to this, the non starting only occurred when the engine was hot. Now it just won't start. I've got a suspicion the solenoid may not be the exact same model.
 
Bit more info, the battery is at 12.1V so should have enough juice to turn the starter. I have also tested the starter and new solenoid outside of the car (with same battery and it worked). Finally, have connected a multimeter to the copper strap that goes to the starter brushes and found that when turning the key, the starter does not get power.
 
bmwz3tower said:
Bit more info, the battery is at 12.1V so should have enough juice to turn the starter. I have also tested the starter and new solenoid outside of the car (with same battery and it worked). Finally, have connected a multimeter to the copper strap that goes to the starter brushes and found that when turning the key, the starter does not get power.
Click to expand...

12.1v is flat, very flat! You need to give that a good charge or get something to jump start from.
 
I've got a new battery and it didnt change anything. Tried starting with the ews connector pulled and I couldn't hear the solenoid click suggesting its not an ews problem.
So I'm going to check the starter relay does anyone know where it is or how to test it.
 
I also tried to crank it with no spark plugs (to reduce compression and therefore power needed by the starter) but it made no difference just the solenoid click again
 
Removed the starter again, it seems to function as it should. So I'd assume its not that
 
Another update, when you turn the key the wire to the post on the solenoid that closes the solenoid gets 12v. As it should.As far as I can tell everything is perfect.
 
which engine is it?
 
get a jump lead and clip it between the engine, lifting eye maybe, and the chassis stud on the strut top. Try to start. This proves the negative strap to the engine.

Inspect and clean Battery negative strap between clamp and where bolted down to chassis.

If neither of those, using a nice big screwdriver, short the two big studs on the back of the starter motor. Expect it to crank over. This will prove high current supply to starter. Don't assume measuring 12v there will actually spin the motor if there is a resistance in the system.
 
smiffy said:
get a jump lead and clip it between the engine, lifting eye maybe, and the chassis stud on the strut top. Try to start. This proves the negative strap to the engine.

Inspect and clean Battery negative strap between clamp and where bolted down to chassis.

If neither of those, using a nice big screwdriver, short the two big studs on the back of the starter motor. Expect it to crank over. This will prove high current supply to starter. Don't assume measuring 12v there will actually spin the motor if there is a resistance in the system.
Click to expand...
I've already done the first 2 with no luck, so I'll try the 3rd
 
I've got the issue narrowed down now, I put 12v to the post on the solenoid that closes the connection and the starter cranked the engine over. But the wire that usually gives that 12v was giving 12v with solenoid disconnected but when attached to solenoid only gave 6v.
 
The problem was the replacement solenoid. Put the old one in and it worked fine. Wouldn't start and I realised I must have connected the fuel lines wrong, which lead to me spraying pressurised petrol into my eyes.
 
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