Flashing tape to stop leaking hood frame seal

Dino D

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
Joined
Mar 28, 2014
Points
176
Location
Kent
Model of Z
2.8 Manual
So after trying a few things (tightening hood sealing frame bolts, silicone and Captain Tolly's Creeping Crack cure) I'd almost got rid of the leak from there (the butyl sealant dries out apparently and removing the hood and frame and re-sealing it the one solution (or new hood if you need one anyway)

I don't need a new hood nor able to remove the hood frame and re-seal it...
Then had the bright idea if getting some butyl flashing tape. I got the 100m wide version by Sika from Screwfix (there are plenty of butyl flashing tapes out there).
I then warmed it as it was cold out and proceeded to fix all the way around the hood frame seal and made a double row for good measure.
Seems to have done the trick and can be peeled away when I eventually need to replace the hood.

Might be useful for others out there.

Going to dynamat that area too as a lot of noise comes in there since I removed the carpet (which is very light weight anyway). Will finish it off nicely too as it's a it messy now to my eye even if it out of sight and under the carpet!

Some pics:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421619228.990791.webp

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421619240.840044.webp

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421619254.207486.webp
 
That looks a good, if temporary. fix Dino.

Tony.
 
That is probably more of a dam than a seal. The leak is still there, but the water is now trapped in the sealing ring.
 
I wouldn't expect it will be long before the leak appears somewhere else. Have you tried the Gummi Pflege on the seals? It is supposed to soften and lub old seals. Anyone else using it? I bought a couple of bottles off eBay UK but have to wait till spring to try it personally. JIM
 
wouldn't expect it will be long before the leak appears somewhere else. ... Have you tried the Gummi Pflege on the seals? It is supposed to soften and lub old seals. Anyone else using it? I bought a couple of bottles off eBay UK but have to wait till spring to try it personally. JIM
I use it on the soft rubber seals around the windshield, windows, etc. But Dino's leak is through the butyl tape of the hood's sealing ring.
Posts #15 and #16 in this thread describe a repair with butyl tape that might restore Dino's seal from above.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8765312#post8765312
 
Mmmm, if your happy with it! But re placing the strip isnt that bad, the removal and fitting is pretty straight forward, its the cleaning of the old Butyl off the parts that take the time. I had problems where water was entering the boot, so decided to remove the hood and replace the seal, took about 6 hours in total, 4 of which was cleaning that old damn sticky stuff off.

But good luck with your idea, hope it works out..(If it doesnt more damn cleaning to do:arghh:)

https://zroadster.org/threads/leaking-hood-repair.3357/
 
Last edited:
I am replying to the creator of the thread! Regarding his fix for a leaking seal, and the cleaning up of the Butyl sealant. And the ease of replacing the sealant as per my link in the message.
 
@Dino D have you tried the butyl sealant on a roll? I have fitted 4 new roofs and I have used this every time without fail. It comes in 5m lengths just run once piece from the drainage gully to the other and lower the roof back in place and secure the bolts.

Lee
 
I posted this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8765312#post8765312
I have not needed to try it, but it does not involve cleaning...
Correction, I see it does involve cleaning the old tape, as he says:
"I removed the broken pieces of sealing strip which one went across two screw holes, about a foot. I cleaned the old sealant that I believe was the original. Like I said, the guy that was here before me was a tad cheaper than I. He didn't use near enough to fill the gaps, and the wrinkles filled with a hard sealer/adhesive made it impossible to have a successful job."
In fact, his repair with the tape must have been the same as what TafZee shows.
 
Just to confirm, I replaced "ALL" the sealant without any breaks in the Butyl strip starting over the left drain hole and finishing over the right drain hole in one peice, I used two runs of this strip to ensure a good seal, and there are in fact two seals that will need to be made, the first one is the plastic sealing frame that fits directly to the bodywork and sealed between the bodywork and the sealing strip, then the hoods plastic frame which attached to the hood needs to be sealed to the seal strip in the same manner, and yes all faces of the parts need cleaning (Thats four faces) which is a SOB to do.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.
This solution is only to stop what was small amount of water (the bulk was sorted by silicone).
I after running one row of tape I thought I'd better do it properly and do a second row, it's a pain getting in there with roll hoops in the way!

What I'm going to do know is keep putting in the creeping crack cure. It was running through and not setting but now with nowhere to go if will set

When the weather is warm again I can have a go at checking if any water is trapped and possibly just replacing the sealing frame.
Whilst this is butyl it is in tape form and nowhere near as messy as the black stuff you normally find so will be easy to remove and peel away when I need to.

This has held up well through a lot if rain recently and that's what I need right now, a dry interior over winter as it only gets used once or twice a week at the moment and I don't want my interior getting mouldy!
 
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