I.d help and induction kit

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Could well be, they seem to be susceptible to air leak related problems. Either way it needs replacing and if it cures some of your woes that'd be a bonus.:)

Tony.
 
Hi from Hertfordshire.
I bet you will find lots of broken/perished rubber when you start looking. all pretty easy to put right though. as far as induction, I fogged my 1.9, lots of stuff on the forums about that, and I have a cone on my 2.0Ltr now. If you have a few miles on your 1.9 look at cleaniing the injectors, I did this & replaced all the split tubes I could find & the pcv valve clean up too. It made lots of difference, in a good way.
 
I've replaced a few pipes already. No idea what job they did lol.
Hi Martin car has just gone over 90k but it's had a few owners and I don't think it's seen a service for a few years before I got it. I recon it's been bought in spring and sold by winter........ A few times.

Few questions Martin first which do u think gave best results IYO and have u managed to do this with the maf still connected? I do intend to clean what ever possible with my limited mechanical skill. Just tackling the lil jobs first while I build confidence. Really appreciate all the help guys.
 
Hi ya, yup MAF still in place, cleaning the injectors and replacing the vacume pipes attached to them was the best fix. There is a good thread on M44 injector cleaning which shows the pipes, I bought a length of fuel pipe to replace these small pipes with from the same shop, can't remember the bore tho. The PCV valve tubing was shot from the inside out, if you squeeze it & it is slow to return to shape have a look at that.. Most of this stuff is visble if you take off the top inlet manifold. if you do the injectors be careful when you vent the fuel out of the valve on the injector rail, do it with a cold engine & lots of rags to soak up the fuel. Or follow the book & remove the fuel pump fuse & run the engine till it stalls.
https://zroadster.org/articles/m44b19-fuel-injector-replacement.76/

good luck
 
It only takes a small split in a hose to affect the running so check them all very carefully. If they have lost flexibility they're on their last legs so replace. You may find more splits once you start really looking for them! JIM
 
Great think I got enough to keep me going for now. Al get back with my results. [emoji108]
 
Hi ya, yup MAF still in place, cleaning the injectors and replacing the vacume pipes attached to them was the best fix. There is a good thread on M44 injector cleaning which shows the pipes, I bought a length of fuel pipe to replace these small pipes with from the same shop, can't remember the bore tho. The PCV valve tubing was shot from the inside out, if you squeeze it & it is slow to return to shape have a look at that.. Most of this stuff is visble if you take off the top inlet manifold. if you do the injectors be careful when you vent the fuel out of the valve on the injector rail, do it with a cold engine & lots of rags to soak up the fuel. Or follow the book & remove the fuel pump fuse & run the engine till it stalls.
https://zroadster.org/articles/m44b19-fuel-injector-replacement.76/

good luck

I don't think that link leads to injector cleaning lol
 
:thumbsup:Yup, but it's the one I followed to get them out, it's a good start. hope it goes OK
 
Canman and motor neurone disease........ that's what I get when I click the link [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Sorry if it's a silly question. But wen I yank off the hoses to the injectors am I going to have fuel spilling all over the place?
I didn't realise the split hose I need to replace ran off to the injectors..... (Slow learner) May as well do them all while am there.
 
No the rubber hoses are vacuum hoses the fuel is in the metal rail. It is worth having the injectors cleaned correctly, as you will get new seals and the spray pattern will be correctly atomised rather than a jet of fuel.

the crank sensor and cam sensor are used for engine timing, if you have poor engine timing the engine is not firing at the correct time, hence poor performance. If you have a crank or cam sensor code, change the sensor, the only other thing would be stretched timing chain, and not much chance of that.

The vacuum hoses work on the injectors and the plenum chamber helping to create the atomised spray of fuel and switching the plenum chamber from short to long length, this could affect performance if the plenum is not switching until later in the rev range, and an injector that dribbles or shoots a jet instead of a spray will give in complete burn and poor performance.

Air leaks in the induction give a lean mixture this is compensated by the Ecuador taking a reading from the lambda sensor and amending the cam timing, which can generate a cam sensor code, but will also give a lambda code, this results in poor performance.

The piper cross cone filter works out at £35, the K&N is about a £100.

Hope the above helps
 
Canman and motor neurone disease........ that's what I get when I click the link
emoji23.png
emoji23.png
emoji23.png
emoji23.png
Any chance you are using Tapatalk? There is a bug they were supposed to have fixed with links in their app. Try accessing the site using a web browser, and you will have a much better experience....
 
[emoji23] yes I am using tap talk.
I found the write up. Copyed and pasted to my notes. Can't wait [emoji16]
I defo picked the right car.
 
Made a start here's the car as it stands, looks a lil different to the pics I've been following as it don't have the tree. But I think am on the right road.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436602896.512573.webp


Also found another plug that's seem to have lost its place.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436602946.811656.webp
 
Hi, I tought be your car descriptin you had an M44 engine, not the case by your pics. I think it's a M43 but not up on those, so the injector pictures will be a bit useless, sorry. The PCV valve is just to the right of the intake tubes in the first picture.all I can suggest is look at all the rubber tubes & check them.
 
I think this is going to be the plan, but first I have error codes on the knock sensors. Going to replace them first then if that's ok straight for the k&n. I put one on my e46 was impressed with the extra milage I was getting. [emoji108]. (Ohhh how you doing) I look nothing like joey by the way [emoji23]

Do you get improved MPG then with the K&N kit ?
 
Do you get improved MPG then with the K&N kit ?

I had one on my e46 not a induction just the flat k&n and yes imdefo got better milage not a great deal but according to the trip computer I was getting a extra 4-6 mpg.
Got back under the bonnet today and the plug I found was the actually the knock sensor so found where to plug it in and so far it's not popped up on the code reader so another job down.......
Now my dials work intermittently (shake my head lol)
 
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I had one on my e46 not a induction just the flat k&n and yes imdefo got better milage not a great deal but according to the trip computer I was getting a extra 4-6 mpg.
Got back under the bonnet today and the plug I found was the actually the knock sensor so found where to plug it in and so far it's not popped up on the code reader so another job down.......
Now my dials work intermittently (shake my head lol)
Glad you are slowly taking care of those niggles, just be patient and soon the zed will be what you want. Then you'll get the " what can I do next" syndrome and make it truly yours. JIM
 
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