How To Guide Instrument cluster removal

t-tony said:
You can remove the glass, that's exactly why I did mine.

Tony.
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Thanks Tony. I just wanted to make sure I hadn't chosen the bad choice…. So, the reset/mileage button just comes off.

Like I said, if swapping the whole cluster works if the correct coding plug is installed before hand, wouldn't that be a simpler solution?
 
Much appreciated for the write up @t-tony. Used it this week to replace some illumination bulbs. Those little plastic coupling on the back are a fiddle.

I used my railcard and 12 years expired student matriculation card and slide them between the pod and mounting brackets. Then x2 Allen keys pushed up through the unbolted mount brackets and pulled back. Slid right out.
 
Mus Musculus said:
Thanks Tony. I just wanted to make sure I hadn't chosen the bad choice…. So, the reset/mileage button just comes off.

Like I said, if swapping the whole cluster works if the correct coding plug is installed before hand, wouldn't that be a simpler solution?
Click to expand...

When I did mine all those years ago it was a first time, so I just spread a towel on the kitchen table and kept taking bits of till I got what I wanted.

Tony.
 
It is. :)

Tony.
 
motco said:
It sounds like a firmware problem. Mine over-read by a significant amount when my coding plug failed and EEP-1 was displayed in the mileage field. There's no adjustments accessible by simply removing the cluster. Here is a thread which may help
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I get EEP_2 in cold weather (like < 3C) but the over-reading speedo is there regardless of temperature. I thought there were some trim potentiometers on the back of the cluster, that's what I read somewhere...
 
Normally you can not, any changes to that would be tampering. In the US you get a certificate from the state motor Vehicle agency that you have changed it.
 
Rudyrov said:
Normally you can not, any changes to that would be tampering. In the US you get a certificate from the state motor Vehicle agency that you have changed it.
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Even if I swapped the odometer part over? So there’s no way to replace the dash huh
 
Of the Blue, Black and White wiring clusters, does anybody know which supplies the Fuel & Temp gauges ---- mine have an intermittent fault whereby they drop to zero -- randomly and independently to each other. I'm thinking this might be a case of a need to clean the contacts?
 
Chad66Wick said:
Of the Blue, Black and White wiring clusters, does anybody know which supplies the Fuel & Temp gauges ---- mine have an intermittent fault whereby they drop to zero -- randomly and independently to each other. I'm thinking this might be a case of a need to clean the contacts?
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I also have this intermittent, completely random fault with my fuel gauge since I bought the car, but I haven't fixed it yet.
If you get any luck with it, please update us :hungry:
 
Chad66Wick said:
Of the Blue, Black and White wiring clusters, does anybody know which supplies the Fuel & Temp gauges ---- mine have an intermittent fault whereby they drop to zero -- randomly and independently to each other. I'm thinking this might be a case of a need to clean the contacts?
Click to expand...
It depends on which ECU/DME the car has, as they are different for each.
My 3 litre (2001 model) uses the canbus connections from the white connector (X16) for the coolant gauge and X271 (black connector) terminals 1 & 3 (earth) for the fuel level sensor to the gauge. But other DMEs use X17 (blue connector) terminals 17 & 18 for the coolant gauge from the sensor. and others will probably be different again!

All sensors have a positive and an earth. Chances are you have a bit of dodgy earth somewhere.

Personally I would check the connections at the sensors first.....it is easier than getting the cluster out!
 
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Pond said:
It depends on which ECU/DME the car has, as they are different for each.
My 3 litre (2001 model) uses the canbus connections from the white connector (X16) for the coolant gauge and X271 (black connector) terminals 1 & 3 (earth) for the fuel level sensor to the gauge. But other DMEs use X17 (blue connector) terminals 17 & 18 for the coolant gauge from the sensor. and others will probably be different again!

All sensors have a positive and an earth. Chances are you have a bit of dodgy earth somewhere.

Personally I would check the connections at the sensors first.....it is easier than getting the cluster out!
Click to expand...
Magic --- thanks for that Pond......... will have a peak and report back for Elky..
 
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