Interior repairs

baldricks mate

Regular Member
Australian Zeds
Joined
Aug 16, 2025
Points
13
Location
Riverina. NSW. Oz
Model of Z
1997 1.9L
My recent purchase, a 1997 1.9L is in pretty good condition overall but the interior where the Aussie sun has left its mark...not so much. Dash and console is good, however there are places where the 90's ABS plastic has cracks and warping, mainly on the rear cubby box and the door trims were previously repaired by a Gorilla with a bone through his nose and roofing screws/supa glue (which does not work on ABS). These bit are almost impossible to find here and import from GB or US is prohibitively expensive. So here is a thread of my fixes, for better or worse. It'd be hard to be worse...

First the cubby and seat belt tower covers. Materials used were fiberglass, marine carpet, Sikaflex adhesive spray and patience. If you break the back of marine carpet it can be stretched and moulded to a degree. Descriptions in pic order.

Speaker cutouts where damage was. (face will be black marine vinyl covered when it arrives) Lid was trashed, held together with gaffa tape, so fiberglass the inside. Then marine carpet. Inside of lid had cracks too, so fibreglass too and cover with carpet. Back wall of cubby was cracked and warped, straighten with heat gun and fibreglass inside. Carpet the sun damage on the seat belt tower covers.

Z3 Cubby 1.jpeg
Z3 cubby 4.jpeg
Z3 cubby 5.jpeg
Z3 cubby 2.jpeg
Z3 cubby 6.jpeg
Z3 cubby 3.jpeg
 

Stevo7682

Zorg Expert (I)
Supporter
The M44 Massive
Scottish Zeds
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Points
218
Location
Maybole , South Ayrshire
Model of Z
Z3 Individual Dakar / Orinoco Individual
Such a shame that postage so expensive i have literally binned 2 of them as non roll bar one not really worth anything
I have retrofitted roll bars twice and have ended up binning the bits you have pictured.
Stephen.
 

baldricks mate

Regular Member
Australian Zeds
Joined
Aug 16, 2025
Points
13
Location
Riverina. NSW. Oz
Model of Z
1997 1.9L
And the horrors persist...following the footprint trails of the thick-head who decided they could fix that BMW, mate!
Strip door card trims etc. Heat gun off broken card mount clips. Scrounged similar plastic mounts from an 90's Aussie Ford Falcon door card to glue on as replacements, they use the same white plastic clips as BMW.
Drivers door card was "fixed" by a gorilla with hex roofing screws, so its a mess; fiberglass reinforces the card. I'll re-cut holes etc afterwards. The force they used closing the door, they ripped the innards out of the door handles and broke the card there too.
Fiberglass is curing, off to visit the passenger power window problems, it overshoots at the top of its close travel, makes a machine gun noise and jams.
So to disassemble. Bolt locating bottom quarter pane glass frame was cross-threaded. so had to cut its head off (carefully). Will likely have to spot weld new M6 nut to bottom of frame.
The next pic is the culprit causing the problem. The cylindrical threaded stop mount had been rotated so the M6 threaded stop didn't engage on the pressing inside the door and the plastic top on the height adjuster was loose in the bottom of the door. This means at fully up the threads on the adjuster jam on the door metal pressing, seizing the window. How anyone could rotate that cylindrical doohicky is beyond me as to move it required heating the pressed rivet and using large vice grip pliers to turn it to the correct position. Note to self: Never, ever under estimate the determination of a clueless idiot.
Oh joy! More damage! This mounting point inside the door locates the actual window mechanism and its trashed too. So some delicate mig welding here too.
I won't complain too much, I got the car for a song, so that's the upside.

driver door clip mounts 11.jpeg
Drivers door card 7.jpeg
Passenger door quarter window mount  9.jpeg
Passenger power window stop 10.jpeg
Passenger door power window 8.jpeg
 
Top