Opinions? Help needed

I've been off work ill since Tuesday morning Steve, but when I'm back I will see if any of our suppliers list them for you.

Tony.
 
SteveZ3 said:
It was a fairly considerable impact Tony yes. It's not fun at the moment because under acceleration the rear left pushes the backend towards the left - making the car turn right in effect. It also oversteers on left turns and understeers on right turns.

There was a slight adjustment to the front end for alignment. As you said, I'm going to have to start measuring dimensions now.
I hate these back ends!

Thanks for your help so far Tony & Lee.
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Had a similar problem with a Honda after my wife slid into a curb. Turned out that the lower control arm was slightly bent. I replaced it myself and everything was good. I think Tony recomended to check the measuremens of your components. I didn't have time to look at the above replies while at work now to see if you had done this.. If you didn't, its a good idea. Frankie
 
FRANKIE said:
Had a similar problem with a Honda after my wife slid into a curb. Turned out that the lower control arm was slightly bent. I replaced it myself and everything was good. I think Tony recomended to check the measuremens of your components. I didn't have time to look at the above replies while at work now to see if you had done this.. If you didn't, its a good idea. Frankie
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I suspect that I have bent my trailing arm. But it needs further inspection. As far as I can tell that's the only component which can really be bent from a kerb hit...
 
It's likely that after such contact the alloy wheel could also be bent Steve?

Tony.
 
Have you replaced that bolt in the photo? It looks very bent.
 
SteveZ3 said:
I've been needing an excuse to persuade the Mrs I should get some style 42 split rims :D
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A bit drastic though mate. Glad to see you can still smile about .:)

Tony.
 
Yes Lee - photos of how the new shocks sit -

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IMG_0014.webp
 
Just had a good look at the rear left trailing arm - there is quite significant cracking from what looks like stress caused by the impact.
Had a quote from BMW today for a new one and they cost £542 each. Not looking good :(

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SteveZ3 said:
Just had a good look at the rear left trailing arm - there is quite significant cracking from what looks like stress caused by the impact.
Had a quote from BMW today for a new one and they cost £542 each. Not looking good :(

View attachment 12417
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WOW!!!!!!! Time to hit the junkyard. SOMEONE has to be parting out a car, somewhere!! Sorry to see that. Frankie
 
SteveZ3 said:
Just had a good look at the rear left trailing arm - there is quite significant cracking from what looks like stress caused by the impact.
Had a quote from BMW today for a new one and they cost £542 each. Not looking good :(

View attachment 12417
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There you go Steve, Wow! It's a long time since I last saw one anything like that. At least you know where the real problem lies now and that's a start.

Tony.
 
Great news Steve. 10 out of 10 for our illustrious leader.:thumbsup: The only problem, I've found, that you may encounter is getting the driveshaft out of the splined hub. I have done several 3 series rear wheel bearings and not one has come out easily.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
Great news Steve. 10 out of 10 for our illustrious leader.:thumbsup: The only problem, I've found, that you may encounter is getting the driveshaft out of the splined hub. I have done several 3 series rear wheel bearings and not one has come out easily.

Tony.
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Thanks for the heads up. I'm not really looking forward to changing it if i'm honest! :nailbiting:
 
Usually if it's like I think you simply take the arm, complete with driveshaft hanging out the hub and get it pressed out somewhere. Once the splines are cleaned they go back together very easily mate. Sorry, didn't mean to put the wind up you.;)

Tony.
 
SteveZ3 said:
Good news!
I've already had a reply on facebook to my request and hopefully I'll be getting a trailing arm for £75!
Thanks Gary for link to the facebook group.
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That's really a great savings!!!!!!!! I've never had to remove a rear drive shaft in the last 15 years. The last one was on my Ford f150 pickup but I can't remember why I had to do it. It wasn't that difficult on that vehicle but Tony knows best on these. I don't know if you have a tool called port-a-power where you have hydraulic portable power. Most applications are used for body repair work but there are many applications for applying power to stuck parts. These tools can be rented or in some places such as auto stores loaned for free with a deposit. If you don't know if this tool can help you, first see if you can get it anywhere and before getting it, ask to look at it to see what parts the tool has. The tool has a hydraulic pump that attaches to different sections of pipes or clamps that can be used to push or pull or move things. What you would need to do is to look at and understand your need then see if the tools supplied will serve your application. If you can get the tools to use for free, its worth it. I know this must sound confusing. The other side of the coin is to just take it somewhere, and for a few pounds, they'll press it out for you. I have a small bench press and also a portable press at home so I'm used to it, but perhaps this is all too confusing to you. Let us know what you decide to do. Good Luck with it.
 
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I usually use compressed air and an air chisel with a round pointed bit Frankie. I'm sure you know what I mean. But some times they're so tight even that won't shift them.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
I usually use compressed air and an air chisel with a round pointed bit Frankie. I'm sure you know what I mean. But some times they're so tight even that won't shift them.

Tony.
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I have done many axle extractions from front wheel drive cars......mostly hondas. Fortunately, I'm the last house on the block and do my work on the dead end of the street so no one really hears me swearing at the f.....g axle. Frankie
 
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