Rear roll bar drop links

Brian4

Brian4

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
East Anglian Crew
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Points
173
Location
Near Grantham
Model of Z
Z3 3.0i Auto
I changed the rear drop links a week ago and on the drive to and from Sussex at the weekend I noticed that the rear is a lot more stable especially on the bumpy local roads.
The drop links didn't look bad but when I compared them to the new ones the hole for the rollbar was much smaller and there were some cracks in the rubber and they had started to come unbonded from the metal.

So for the sake of £15 worth doing anyway.
 
Getting ready for Sunday Brian?
 
Just ordered a pair as well, I've got to do the rear pads and clean/adjust the shoes so might as well do these too while I'm there. :happy:
 
Its not a big job, two bolts, one either side remove these then waggle off the roll bar, to refit just need to lube up and push onto the roll bar before you tighten the bolts up, do it with the car on the ground slightly raised, wheel off will help of course.
 
zedonist said:
Its not a big job, two bolts, one either side remove these then waggle off the roll bar, to refit just need to lube up and push onto the roll bar before you tighten the bolts up, do it with the car on the ground slightly raised, wheel off will help of course.
Click to expand...
May well add this to the list when I do the rear brakes then.
 
I probably made take longer than needed but this is what I did.

I did the links at the same time as cleaning up the springs and rear arms so I took all apart one day and reassembled next day.

Jacked up and supported on axle stands under rear jacking points.

Remove both wheels.

Removed the bolts from base of shock absorber (18mm).

Removed the nuts from the drop-link brackets to rear arm. (13mm)

Lowered the rear arms and removed each spring and pads. The passenger side wasn’t so easy as I didn’t release the exhaust rubber support I now realise.

Removed the spare wheel and carrier, and then the cage that fits to the body. The wire that is used to lift the cage up/down is screwed into the cage I think it is a 6mm spanner or adjustable!!. The rear is held up with a long bolts and a 10mm nut.

(This makes removing the roll bar easier as the drop links are still fitted.

Removed the nuts from the two roll bar bush brackets onto the car body. (13mm). These have a tab that fits in a slot in the body and stud/nut to secure them in place.

Once this is done the whole roll bar can be wriggled out not forgetting which way round it goes, cos I did.

Remove the bolt holding the link into the bracket these were pretty corroded nuts.

Note which way the links are relative to the roll bar easy to get them 180 deg out’

I then put the drop link in the vice and pulled wriggled the roll bar until it came off.


Cleaned every thing up and painted the parts


Fitted the links by lubricating the rubber with soapy water and pushing the link on the end of the roll bar, not easy but once it had started it went on ok.

Line drop links up 75 deg as when they were taken off.

Refitting is the reverse of dismantling. Replace all the nuts with new nylocs.


Whilst it was all apart I cleaned and painted the springs and top of the rear arms. The underside is coated in a rubbery material I guess to stop stone chips etc.
 
You have just cost me a small fortune Brian, new drop links ordered as well as a couple of new bolts, whilst looking on BMWFans for the part numbers I though I may as well get some new brackets and then a nuts for the brackets and then other nuts and so on and so on.............. got myself a wee job next weekend though :)
 
Apologies Brian but I never intended to cause you expense but I am sure you will see a return on your investment. The additional benefit is that you won't be idle over the weekend.
 
No worries Brian, I have been thinking about changing my ARB links for a while, you just helped me get on with it. :)
 
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