feels like driving with the "choke" out

Hi,

Hoping this is the right place to solve my error codes. The car has since I bought it felt under powered up to 3000 rpm and about a week ago started acting odd (random whirring sound on acceleration that goes away). Wrongly I was advised it could be the DISA so I replaced this and found it wasn't that at all.

I decided to buy an OBD unit so I could read any codes thrown up as I have not had any warning lights etc. The first code is P0340 which a bit of Googling comes back with a CAM POSITION SENSOR, the second is P1161 which appear to relate to FUEL TRIM ADAPTION ADDITIVE BANK 2.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks,
Rich
 
jonco said:
First you need to check that they are current and not historical errors - make a note, reset, drive and re-check what comes back up.

Code P0340 was recently discussed in this https://zroadster.org/threads/z3-with-stop-start-technology.8070/page-2#post-116805 by @Eddie Zedder
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Hi,

I used the app to clear the P0340 code and the went out for a drive to warm it up. Ran a scan and it hadn't come back. Waited a while and went out again, code is now back.

I tried to remove the P1161 code but this has stayed.

I'll check the link you've put.

Thanks,
Rich
 
Which model do you have Rich. When the cam sensor failed on my 2.0 it didn't put the EML light on but always went into "limp home mode" ie loss of power.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
Which model do you have Rich. When the cam sensor failed on my 2.0 it didn't put the EML light on but always went into "limp home mode" ie loss of power.

Tony.
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Hi,

I have a 1999 2.0

The car hasn't gone into a limp mode and still is pulling fairly well, just not what I'd call rapid.

No dash lights on either.

Thanks,
Rich
 
I'd be surprised if it hasn't gone into limp home Rich. It's doing just what my car did. If it is the cam sensor, and if the code is back then it sounds though it is, when you change it the difference is like night and day. @Eddie Zedder changed his last weekend. Like a new car!

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
I'd be surprised if it hasn't gone into limp home Rich. It's doing just what my car did. If it is the cam sensor, and if the code is back then it sounds though it is, when you change it the difference is like night and day. @Eddie Zedder changed his last weekend. Like a new car!

Tony.
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Hi,

If it's in limp mode now, it'll be a rocket if the fault gets fixed. I think I need to look into this further as I'm confused by the code and the car not being that limp
 
If it's put the p0340 code in again you have to believe that it's the cam sensor? The other code may well be a generic code that won't clear.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
If it's put the p0340 code in again you have to believe that it's the cam sensor? The other code may well be a generic code that won't clear.

Tony.
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Hi Tony,

I think for the sake of it, I'll get it changed. Any recommendations on parts suppliers?

Thanks,
Rich
 
Originally my boss at work gone one from Euro Car Parts . Unbeknown to me he got the cheapest they offered which proved to be a false economy Rich as it failed soon after fitting. They replaced that with an O.E M. Quality one which has been sound, I think it was about £36-37. I think I'm right in saying that Eddie Zedder went for genuine BMW part. Hope you get it sorted mate.:)

Tony.

ps. The price I paid was a "trade" price so it may be a little more and that was 2 years ago too.
 
t-tony said:
Originally my boss at work gone one from Euro Car Parts . Unbeknown to me he got the cheapest they offered which proved to be a false economy Rich as it failed soon after fitting. They replaced that with an O.E M. Quality one which has been sound, I think it was about £36-37. I think I'm right in saying that Eddie Zedder went for genuine BMW part. Hope you get it sorted mate.:)

Tony.

ps. The price I paid was a "trade" price so it may be a little more and that was 2 years ago too.
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Hi gear info,

I'll do a bit of scouting around and I'll post my update.

Many thanks,
Rich
 
Applied Thought said:
Hi gear info,

I'll do a bit of scouting around and I'll post my update.

Many thanks,
Rich
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Hi Rich, as Tony said I went for the genuine BMW inlet sensor which I got from Sopers of Lincoln which along with a new o-ring cost £99.01p with forum discount. Yes it could probably be said that it is expensive, but as mentioned by others in previous threads 'don't go cheap on this part'.

The symptoms beforehand - lack of power when accelerating (but not all the time), sometimes missing a beat, stalling when depressing the accelerator while attempting to move off at junctions, reluctance to rev from idle speed in neutral, I think you get the picture. When I bought the car, and being new to Zed's, I thought that was it's normal performance but it soon became apparent that it wasn't as it varied each time I went out.

As soon as I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code it was a totally different beast, free revving in neutral, power all through the rev range, no stalling, smooth acceleration in all gears.

What amazes me is that the previous owner knew about the stalling issue for a while but hadn't sorted it. I think he has been driving with a knackered sensor since he had owned it (4yrs)so has missed out on all that extra Zed fun. The good thing is he works with me, so I will let him have a drive to show him what he has been missing!

Anyway the moral of the story - £99, worth every penny!
 
Eddie Zedder said:
What amazes me is that the previous owner knew about the stalling issue for a while but hadn't sorted it. I think he has been driving with a knackered sensor since he had owned it (4yrs)so has missed out on all that extra Zed fun
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I suspect that Gary who I bought mine from had also the same problem, consequently having no previous experience of BMW's at all let alone Z's, I think mine had this issue when I bought it. The main thing is that it doesn't always trigger the EML.

Tony.
 
Eddie Zedder said:
Hi Rich, as Tony said I went for the genuine BMW inlet sensor which I got from Sopers of Lincoln which along with a new o-ring cost £99.01p with forum discount. Yes it could probably be said that it is expensive, but as mentioned by others in previous threads 'don't go cheap on this part'.

The symptoms beforehand - lack of power when accelerating (but not all the time), sometimes missing a beat, stalling when depressing the accelerator while attempting to move off at junctions, reluctance to rev from idle speed in neutral, I think you get the picture. When I bought the car, and being new to Zed's, I thought that was it's normal performance but it soon became apparent that it wasn't as it varied each time I went out.

As soon as I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code it was a totally different beast, free revving in neutral, power all through the rev range, no stalling, smooth acceleration in all gears.

What amazes me is that the previous owner knew about the stalling issue for a while but hadn't sorted it. I think he has been driving with a knackered sensor since he had owned it (4yrs)so has missed out on all that extra Zed fun. The good thing is he works with me, so I will let him have a drive to show him what he has been missing!

Anyway the moral of the story - £99, worth every penny!
Click to expand...
Hi,

I'm going to have to get this sorted as I don't want to put this off. My only concern is that not all of the symptoms match the usual others have experienced. I'm wondering if there could be other parts that would give the same fault. Long shot I known but having on a previous car changed something that didn't sort the fault, I'm cautious a bit.
 
t-tony said:
I suspect that Gary who I bought mine from had also the same problem, consequently having no previous experience of BMW's at all let alone Z's, I think mine had this issue when I bought it. The main thing is that it doesn't always trigger the EML.

Tony.
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I cleared the faults again previously but they came back so action is definitely required.
 
Can understand that Rich, most definitely, but if the cam sensor fault code keeps coming back you should be confident to change that sensor.
You don't have to go with BMW part, just an O.E.M. quality part.

Tony.
 
Applied Thought said:
previously but they came back
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I was doing exactly that too mate and I could tell how the car started whether the code had come back. If it started "cleanly" I knew it was ok but if it didn't ie wound over quite a bit before starting meant the code was back and car would be gutless.

Tony.
 
t-tony said:
I was doing exactly that too mate and I could tell how the car started whether the code had come back. If it started "cleanly" I knew it was ok but if it didn't ie wound over quite a bit before starting meant the code was back and car would be gutless.

Tony.
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Mind made up, going to get some prices. Might also get a quote for a garage (not main dealer) as the job looks interesting to do.
 
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