Help - How to place Z3 on Jack Stands [4]

Cooper

Cooper

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
Australian Zeds
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Points
157
Location
Hobart Tasmania Australia
Model of Z
3.0i 2001
Hi,

Can someone please advise [or show with pix] a safe way to place a Z3 on 4 jack stands under the jack up points? Some people say it's common sense and such but this is my first time and I have not seen a clear and precise instruction on it. Please go into as much detail as possible for jacking the car. No need to discuss how I need to do the specific jobs mentioned here. I will be changing the Auto Trans oil soon so I will be starting the car while it is on the jacks! Safety first! Later, I will be changing all the shock absorbers.

I have a 2T trolley jack and 4 x 3T jack stands, level concrete garage floor. I also have ramps and the low profile ramp extensions.

Questions include:
1. Do I jack up the rear and then the front or can I do one side and then the other side?
2. Exactly where can I jack the car so I can place the stands under the jack areas?
3. It is OK and best practice to place the stands under the jack points right?
4. Do you place the stands at lowest height then progressively extend them up?
5. What secondary safety precautions do you take?
6. Is it OK to just jack up the front, or just jack up the back? {to work on the brake calipers for instance}

Thanks guys, and girls of course:)

Cooper
 
I can give you some helps Coops but wil be later.

Tony.
 
Hey mate, back at the villa now so here goes,
1. You will probably have to do this in stages. TBH seeing as you have ramps, I would reverse the car up the ramps. Hand brake on and in P.
2. Go under front end from behind the wheels and jack up on the chassis or the front lower arm rear mounting points (not on the arms themselves).
3. Place your axle stands under the jacking points on the sills. If you then haven't enough lift to get the stands as high as you need, let the car sit on the stands as high as they will go. Now let the jack down and either, place a block of wood on the jacks lifting pad or place a large pice of wood under the jack itself. Now you will have more lift and be able to get the stands to full extent. If you're changing Auto box oil you will need to run the engine as you've said, but also the car needs to be level too.
4. If you need the ramps out of the way, once the front is secure you could jack under the Diff with a block of wood on the jacks lifting pad and put the 2nd pair of stands under the rear jacking points on the sills. Then slide the ramps out of the way.

Hope this is of some help mate, if you need anything just yell.

Tony.
 
bertiejaffa said:
Pictures would help this a lot as I always worry I am doing it right
Click to expand...
Sorry @bertiejaffa cant help with pics at the moment, also I don't have any ramps. Could post some after I get home if it would be of use?

Tony.:)
 
Well, I got the car on stands, did the work, and lowered it without any damage or deaths!
My great grandfather has a mechanic that was killed by being crushed by a car so I was not keen to keep the family tradition.
@bertiejaffa this is how I did it, step by step.
If I did something stupid and dodged a bullet I am sure someone will let me know. :)

01. In the garage on a concrete floor I set up the jack stands near where they will be going. Handbrake on tight.
02. Using the jack point driver side front, jack up high. I noticed that the car is stiff and the back driver side wheel started to come off the ground so I kept jacking and placed the stand under the REAR wheel first.
03. Lowered front driver, put a piece of fence wood on the floor jack and placed NEAR the front driver jack point. My thinking is the jack point is strong so the area just to the left and the right must be strong too! I was careful to get the frame not the sill. Jack up and place stand there.
04. Used floor jack NEAR the jack point passenger rear, jack and insert stand. Repeat for front as well. Always check each jack stand just in case they move a bit. Done.
05. Being cautious I put a SOLID concrete block under the sills/frame with a pine sleeper off-cut on top then a 90x90 fence post off-cut on top of that. This left only 1 cm of space where the call could fall. There were 4 of these refer photo.
06. Lower is the reverse of the procedure, well pretty much the same.

jacked.webp
 
That looks perfectly safe to me coops, I'd be under there like a flash mate.:)

Tony.
 
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