Rebody 507 Tribute Build thread

[jaguartvr]

Do you have a wiring diagram showing the wires from the boot handle and where they join on the boot latch?
I found 15mm plastic plumbing pipe idea for running cables through, it can easily be glassed into place. Works great under the bonnet and makes it all very neat.

 

[Dxbolton]

Do you have a wiring diagram showing the wires from the boot handle and where they join on the boot latch?
I found 15mm plastic plumbing pipe idea for running cables through, it can easily be glassed into place. Works great under the bonnet and makes it all very neat.

I can’t recall if there were 3 or 4 wwires on the fiat 500 handle under the foam gasket. It was easy to split these into pairs as I think there was a common ground for the boot handle and lights. I thought it best to keep the circuits separate.
the lock is from a Golf or Passat and has 4 wires. Using a multimeter meter and a battery it was quick to work out which two wires operate it. (Brown was earth and three white wires)
I ran the wires into the car first so I could fit an immobiliser switch to keep the boot locked then back upto the handle and out to the lock

 

[Dxbolton]

This is the electrical connection under the car, the white lever is a manual override should the power die so you can still access the boot

 

[Dxbolton]

Quick wash off before polishing out more of the fibreglass mould joins.
it looks better in natural sunlight than under the LED garage lights

 

[Dxbolton]

The good news.
wheel bolts are now ready to be collected from the machine shop next week so I can get the rims painted, and installed with the centre caps and spinners.
bumpers and front grill have gone for Chrome Painting but will not be ready until late November. It worth the wait.
bad news.
weeks of playing with door lock mechanism hasn’t worked as planned and after trying several different ideas I have given up
I will start on a different option tomorrow that should work as it’s been used on the 250 kits previously, providing the Fiat Spider handles have enough movement in the mechanism. Tape measure will be out in the morning. I also have a back up plan to that if required
Onwards and upwards.

 

[Dxbolton]

 

[Dxbolton]

View attachment 239819

Here’s the wheels fitted with centre caps and spinners in place.
door handle changed to a Triumph Herald as the original Alfa Romeo I wanted to use proved too problematic.
basically it only had a 10mm push action which wasn’t enough to operate the lock and allow the central locking to still operate. This handle has approx 25mm plunger and works fine.
Door skin will be tidied up in due course

 

[Dxbolton]

Door skins just getting ready for final fit. Bonnet badge recessed in traditional bmw style.
lower front valence fitted with number plate, and wing mirror installed. Nearly mot time

 

[Pingu]

View attachment 231518

Have you investigated any solutions to the problem of rain on the boot lid going in the boot when you open it?

 

[Dxbolton]

I’ve bought a rubber boot seal from Woolies which should clip on the grp. I will put seam sealer inside it to make sure it’s water tight and fingers crossed the water will run to the bottom edge. I will do the same on the bonnet infill too, so the engine bay doesn’t get soaked

 

[jaguartvr]

You may want to rethink the wing mirrors. They give a very poor rear view, door mirrors are far superior.
I have wing mirrors on my old Jag and they are pretty much useless so I also have small overtaking mirrors on the doors. Ideally I would like two remove the wing mirrors and fit door mirrors but that will entail welding up the holes on the wings and getting them repainted.
If you as Chris for a little gel coat you will be able to fill any holes in and match the finish/colour perfectly.

How did you resolve the door opening?

 

[Dxbolton]

You may want to rethink the wing mirrors. They give a very poor rear view, door mirrors are far superior.
I have wing mirrors on my old Jag and they are pretty much useless so I also have small overtaking mirrors on the doors. Ideally I would like two remove the wing mirrors and fit door mirrors but that will entail welding up the holes on the wings and getting them repainted.
If you as Chris for a little gel coat you will be able to fill any holes in and match the finish/colour perfectly.

How did you resolve the door opening?

I went with the wing mirror as it mirrors the original cars, not for actual use and practicality.
In the end Chris and I gave up on the Alfa handles as they just wouldn’t quite work. So close, but not workable. I ended up using triumph herald ones similar to those in the Isabella’s and 250’s.
The lateral motion on the Alfa handle was circa 10mm but I need 12mm to actuate the locks. Very close, but enough

 

[jaguartvr]

Are you using the door handle to press on a plate or using cables?

 

[Dxbolton]

Are you using the door handle to press on a plate or using cables?

I’m using the plunger to push the metal plate I fitted to the handle. The handle needs to be angled off the door skin to give the correct movement. I can take a photo tonight

 

[Pingu]

I’ve bought a rubber boot seal from Woolies which should clip on the grp. I will put seam sealer inside it to make sure it’s water tight and fingers crossed the water will run to the bottom edge. I will do the same on the bonnet infill too, so the engine bay doesn’t get soaked

I'm not sure you know what I mean. I think you are talking about the boot leaking - I don't mean that.

When it rains the rain may sit on the boot. When you open the boot lid, that water goes in the boot. It looks like your problem won't be as bad as mine, as your boot slopes and the rain may just slide off it.

 

[Dxbolton]

I'm not sure you know what I mean. I think you are talking about the boot leaking - I don't mean that.

When it rains the rain may sit on the boot. When you open the boot lid, that water goes in the boot. It looks like your problem won't be as bad as mine, as your boot slopes and the rain may just slide off it.

I think the boot slopes enough in all directions that it shouldn’t lay on the bootlid.
Fingers crossed it’s ok

 

[t-tony]

BMW still haven’t fixed that issue on a 2 year old 420d CC

Tony.

 

[Mus Musculus]

Apologies if I missed the details, but what have you used for rear and front lights? I am keen on doing something similar to what you have done.

Having said that, Classic Coachworks do seem to have prices including donor cars, so I expect they will do the whole stuff to a rolling chassis. I am not that keen (lazy really) on all the manufacturing/spannering details…

 

[Dxbolton]

Apologies if I missed the details, but what have you used for rear and front lights? I am keen on doing something similar to what you have done.

Having said that, Classic Coachworks do seem to have prices including donor cars, so I expect they will do the whole stuff to a rolling chassis. I am not that keen (lazy really) on all the manufacturing/spannering details…

Rear lights are Volvo P1800 units
Generic Lucas P700 tribar headlights.
VW Karmann ghia indicators with the metal housing. Tribute are doing an alternative set up using round Lucas lights as the VW’s are quite hard to locate and expensive. You will have the choice when ordering I believe

 

[Pingu]

Apologies if I missed the details, but what have you used for rear and front lights? I am keen on doing something similar to what you have done.

Having said that, Classic Coachworks do seem to have prices including donor cars, so I expect they will do the whole stuff to a rolling chassis. I am not that keen (lazy really) on all the manufacturing/spannering details…

I don't want to derail the thread, but I think that you are missing a trick by getting CC to supply the rolling chassis, unless you get to see it first. It is much better to know the rolling chassis is tip-top before the body is put on. Once the body is on, it ain't coming off in a hurry.